|Plastering Ones' Self|
|© Copyright 2005 - Riptieron - Used by permission|
|Storycodes: Techniques; wrap; plaster.|
|Plastering Ones' Self by Riptieron Techniques; wrap; plaster.|
I have been communicating with several different people about casts, and different methods I have employed; so finally I wrote an essay on the subject to describe the details, and save myself time of repeating it over and over… then it occurred to me that this stuff might interest some others who are into it as well. I took my posts and e-mails and compiled them together… hope you like. I am open to suggestions… I always look for a better way of doing things.
Plastering Ones’ Self
The first thing you will need is to gather all the materials:
Plaster-O-Paris (50lb bag)
First do as much prep work to the work area as possible, before you do any wrapping- or plastering. When you get all wrapped up its hot and you don’t want to do the work. This step includes locating fans, heaters, scissors, blow dryers, vibrators, strip outlets for power, placing the drop cloth, locating the bucket of water, and the plaster (pre-measuring the two parts plaster and the one part water, out in the buckets- so all you have to do is dump the water and mix). Place any heaters or fans in a good location, to make sure they don’t cause problems later on. Doing a dry run of the location you intend to lie down on or stand in helps to place these items in the right position. There is nothing worse than casting your self in messy plaster then realizing that an item is just six inches out of reach! Take your time and plan out your spot in advance, it could make the difference between having a great time and ending up cursing your ‘bad luck’ as it may seem, which is just a lack of fore thought. Don’t ever forget to go to the bathroom before you cast! (Unless you plan on wearing a catheter.)
Most people don’t think about there escape until the day of, I try to get the help I need long in advance of my planning- it makes good since. When doing a cast it is necessary to have a safe person. Get your safe person established, and call them the day of your session to ensure your escape will occur on time. Don’t let a simple miscommunication become a nightmare for you. I like to have a safe person around from the moment begin to plaster. It’s a real turn on to have someone there, and if anything goes wrong they will be there to help. I call them when I start to put on the plaster; they usually arrive when I am just finishing the plaster. Once the plaster is hardened they can do whatever they wish… sometimes my safe person puts on an extra layer to the parts that need it, and covers my hands up.
There are some things I did not mention in the materials list that is because there are two different ways to prep for the cast. The first is to do a traditional cast, with pre-wrap, and cotton baton rolls. The cast is applied over this insulation. This method requires much more skill to do, because the first layers tend to settle into the cotton, fusing them together. In doing this alone it is nearly impossible to achieve any level of good mummification because the soaking and rolling technique requires that you are on the outside of the cast, dipping the bandages. This dilemma forced me to innovate another technique that did not require a helper to do most of the initial work.
The second method, which is the one I am using, is easily applied by
ones self. It involves covering the body with water proof plastic coating,
then pre-wrapping over the entire body with plastic wrap, then tape, for
extra rigidity, helping you to stay still when the plaster is drying. I
found that removing the cast is simpler when there is a layer of plastic
between you and the cast, acting as a barrier to the plaster- it won’t
stick to the plastic. This comes in handy when its time to get out. There
is some trickiness to covering of your body in plastic, so I will elaborate.
The reason that you must cover your body with a water proof barrier is to prevent the plaster from seeping into the seams of plastic wrap, and mixing with your own sweat. This is important to remember because while the artistic mold plaster doesn’t contain concrete mixes, or other caustic drying agents, the plaster itself will give you a bad skin rash if it mixes into your sweat, drastically raising the PH to a dangerous level. This is known as a chemical burn. Chemical burns cannot be felt until it has gone into the sub dermal layers, making them very dangerous. A chemical burn is not a heat related burn, but rather it produces the same effect without the heat. Pickles are produced by chemical ‘cooking’. So unless you want to be pickled, take the following precautions.
Making the waterproof barrier- I use a thirty gallon size trash bag to make a crude ‘bodysuit’. It does not have to fit well at all; it just has to act as a water barrier. I use four trash bags. Two of them I cut up the middle to produce four equal lengths of plastic bag sections. I tape the open side of each so that a tube is formed by each piece. These pieces will be the arms and legs. Next I take a whole bag and cut leg holes at the bottom of the bag. I tape the legs over the open holes. Be sure the tape is laid flat against the plastic, for a good seal. Next I locate the place on the bag that the arms should go, cut holes for them, repeating the exercise. Now you have a crudely made one size fits all body suit. I put another bag on the top (Open) end of the bag, to give more head room. This exercise will take about 25-35 minutes to perform, depending on your skill. I know, because I just made one.
Next is to slip into the bag, I like to pad myself with an old sweat pants and a long sleeve T-shirt. This will help to soak up some of the sweat, and add to the comfort of your stay in the cast. Putting the bag over your head comes after you have wrapped you body up to your waist at least. Wrap the feet first; when you reach your hips, your flexibility goes way down. I use a lot of plastic wrap; I like to limit my mobility. This will help to keep you still while the plaster cures. I like a spread eagle position. Doing this with legs together is just too hard. You will need to move about before the plaster is set. With your body covered up to your waist, pull the bag over your head and tape it shut. Wrap yourself very quickly up to your armpits, then crisscross over the shoulders, and repeat.
Now the air pocket should be forced to your head. Loosely wrap your neck and head, avoiding your nose and face. Tear out the area for your eyes and nose to poke out. Now, rewrap these areas so that they are better unified. Wrap the arms last; you will need them free to maneuver the wrap over the rest of your body. The shoulders and armpits are the hardest parts to wrap, because of the constant use. Be very careful not to wrap this part of your body too tight, it could restrict blood flow. You do not want a bad loop of plastic wrap cutting into your armpit, causing a bruise.
The plastic wrap may seem like an extra step but it serves one very important use, to prevent the rough edges of the drywall mesh tape from tearing the waterproof barrier. The plastic wrap adds to the ‘stiff’ feeling of the cast in the end. If you are a male, and prefer to leave your cock and balls protruding, simply leave a pocket in the bag large enough for them to pop out in, wrap closer and closer till you have isolated them. I like to add tape over the plastic wrap, to further stiffen and reinforce the effect of the job.
After you have covered yourself with one of the above wrapping methods, begin to wrap the 2” wide drywall mesh tape onto your body. Cover as much of yourself as you’re possibly can. I use a mirror to be sure that I do a good job. Cover yourself at least in three layers of the stuff, criss-crossing as you go to reinforce the strength of the wrapping. The more layers are applied the more strength the cast will have. This will make more sense after you read the rest of the directions. Once you have completed the mesh tape layers over the entire surface of your body, with exception of your hands, (you will need them for the next step) turn on any fans, heaters, dryers that you might need in assisting you to dry the cast. This part of the process usually takes from 2-3 hours, if done carefully by you if someone is helping, 1-2 hours.
Spreading the Plaster
Put on the rubber gloves, and mix the water in the #1 plaster bucket. Standing on the prepared spot, begin working the plaster into the tape mesh. This may take some effort, depending on how much mesh tape is there. If you used plastic wrap, you will know when the plaster has penetrated the mesh when you feel a cold, wet sensation. That is the wet plaster absorbing the heat off your body. I start spreading the plaster from bottom to top, feet and legs, mid section, torso, then neck and head. At this point the first bucket may be used up. Mix the second bucket quickly. Spread the remainder over your arms and shoulders as best you can, then lie down on the plastic sheeting. Keep the plaster bucket within reach. Take the left over plaster and smooth out any crinkles you created by lying down, and then try to relax. Getting to the small of your back is nearly impossible, so I have tried different things to accommodate this inadequacy. The best solution that I can offer is to spread some plaster on the spot you will be lying on, and then press your back into it, forcing the plaster across your back. Be generous with the plaster. It is always better to have mixed too much than to come up short. This part takes about 30 minutes, any more than that and the plaster is set- so hurry!
If you have another person on hand, stay standing as long as you can, let your safe person get the areas on your back. They may have to wrap some areas you missed. If possible remain standing till the first layer cures, then let your safe person apply more mesh tape, and coat again with plaster. It is wise to plan for a standing position by having a partial plaster job up to the waist, and apply two coats. Then apply the upper body coats last.
When alone it is always easier to lie down. When lying down, be sure to stay in a comfortable position, you’re going to be that way for a long time. I rest my head on a gallon paint can, to lean my head forward some. I bend my legs at the knees so blood flow is unrestricted. When you have satisfied your self with the plaster, take off the gloves. Do not touch the plaster after you have taken off the gloves, the part of your body that is vulnerable to the plaster is your wrists, which may have trapped moisture. Put your arms down in a comfortable position. As the plaster cures, it will shrink slightly, this is the best part. When it hardens you will feel it pulling away from you in certain spots, such as the chest area, where you will feel it when breathing. Resist the temptation to test the plaster before it has fully set. In the semi-set stage, plaster will be hard but not strong. When more of the water leaves the plaster, it hardens further until dry it is at full strength. It takes about one hour for the plaster to harden up nicely. If your safe person is nearby, this is the time to apply a second coat, when the plaster is about three fourths dry. They will be able to finish your cast, smoothing it up, patch any missed areas, or do anything else they wish, you’re not going anywhere. The second coat will take about one hour to cure fully, and the entire cast will be bone dry in a little over four hours.
Notes to the safe person: if you wish to participate in the casting process, remember that the layers of cast mesh that are applied create more strength if applied in different directions. The more coats you apply the longer the drying time will be. A blow dryer will hasten the drying time. Never leave the cast person alone, without a means of communication, by that I mean even if you’re in the next room, work out the signals. A two way baby monitor is good for this. Some fun things to do are: Paint or Decorate the Cast, Blindfolds, Gags, and Breath Games, Remove certain parts of the cast for Play.
Be safe. Have fun. If anyone would like a more personal lesson, it can be arranged.
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